How to Install Vinyl Floor Tile (VCT)?

• Measure the area of floor space that you would like to cover with the vinyl floor tile (See Figure 1)
• Remember that you should remove appliances or measure under/behind them so that you can install the flooring in the space that they reside on.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2
Step 2

Relocate all appliances that sit on the floor surface area (Not Cabinets)

• You will next need to measure the floor surface area that you wish to install the vinyl floor on.
• It is easier and more accurate if you break the floor space down to several areas (Like Boxes) then add all of the area up (See Below)

Step 3
Step 3

• As seen in the picture above the two rooms (Kitchen/Laundry) are broken into 6 boxes each with its own measurements
• Each area has two measurements (Length/Width) using the sample below you can then calculate each area for a subtotal of flooring required:

Step 4
Step 4

Area 1 = 5’ x 8’2” = 41.6111 SF
Area 2 = 6’2” x 3’9” = 22.5 SF
Area 3 = 6’7 ½” x 3’9” = 23.75 SF
Area 4 = 4’ x 6’7 ½” = 25.0417 SF
Area 5 = 3’9” x 1’6 ½” = 5.3958 SF
Area 6 = 3’ x 2’7 ½” = 7.875 SF

Total estimated area in square feet = 126.1736 Square feet* Note you will need to add additional footage to cover waste and cuts – A good rule of thumb is to add 10% waste which equals 12.61 sf then total the two numbers and get the number of actual square foot needed: 138.7836 feet you will need to buy 140 square feet of tile (If you are going to glue the tile you will also need to get enough glue to cover the same area in square feet. (You can also buy peal and stick vinyl tile that does not require glue which is quite a bit easier to install but will not last as long as commercial vinyl floor tile.

• Now that you have the materials you will need, You are ready to start laying the tile.
• Find the longest straight wall in either of the rooms, This will be your starting point (I have found the right one for you on the drawing below:

Step 5
Step 5

• Now you are ready to layout the starting tile and begin laying the floor tile by lining up the second tile with the first tile and so on.

Step 6
Step 6

• The 1st tile above is set aligned with the wall and 12” from the line even with the kitchen wall. This will ensure that the tile in the kitchen will line up with the tiles in the laundry room
• Make sure that your tiles are straight and connect tightly to the tile prior and have no gaps between them.

Step 7
Step 7

• Now that the laundry room is complete you will continue laying the floor tile into the kitchen as shown below:

Step 8
Step 8

You will notice that the pink area is left for the last since these tiles will need to be cut to fit along the walls and door ways – Leave these areas until the very last

• When getting ready to “Cut in” start with the area that has the largest space uncovered and then work towards the spaces with the smallest tile area. This will allow you to use “Cut pieces” to fill smaller pieces. BUT KEEP IN MIND that any tile you get ready to use must have straight factory edges on any edge that will “BUTT” another tile to prevent crooked seams and lines
• Continue filling in all of the voids

Step 9
Step 9

Now that you have completed the flooring installation, Wait about 8 hours before installing or moving the appliances, And be sure to use the cardboard boxes that the tiles came in to move the appliances across the floor so that you will not scratch or damage the new floor tile
Caulk around any cove base areas you desire and install thresholds at any door where the floor pattern or type changes (Carpet to tile etc)

DIY Basics of Tile Flooring

Are you looking to install new flooring? Do you like tile flooring? There are many different types of tile, some include, ceramic, and marble, which gives a room a look of elegance and a walkable surface that is beautiful and durable. No matter what type of tile you install, it does need regular routine maintenance, and some prevention techniques to keep it looking new and at its best. Continue reading “DIY Basics of Tile Flooring”

How To Clean Engineered Wood Floors?

Engineered Wood Floor
Engineered Wood Floor

Engineered wood floors, laminate wood floors, snap-in wood floors, whatever name the manufacturer chooses to use, these floors have exploded in popularity. The boards are comprised of a type of press board, covered with a thin veneer of real wood. This two-ply construction allows the boards to breathe a bit, expanding and contracting with minimal exposure to humidity. They are easy to install, requiring few tools. The laminates come in a variety of woods, tones, and shapes. Once installed, they are a durable, beautiful, affordable addition to any home.

With proper cleaning and maintenance, engineered wood floors will last many years. Follow these easy steps to keep the floor looking and functioning well.

Spills

Clean spills as soon as they occur. Just like hardwood floors, engineered wood floors are not designed for prolonged exposure to moisture. Additionally, some liquids can stain the laminate floor if they are left in place too long as they can work their way in between the layers of particleboard and veneer. Once this occurs, it is necessary to replace the stained boards, rather than to try to clean the stain.

Area Rugs

Area rugs are an excellent way to protect the high-traffic areas of the floor from hazards such as high heels and damaging scuffmarks. However, they can also trap fine dirt and dust onto the floor. Lift areas rugs and clean under them regularly. This dirt can scratch the floor every time someone steps on the area rug if it is not removed regularly. For floors that lead to an outside exit, consider placing mats, both inside and outside the door. This will help to remove excess dirt from shoes, prior to entering the house and stepping on the laminate floor.

Sweep Regularly

Use a soft bristled broom or a dust mop to sweep the floor two or three times per week. This activity will prevent larger dirt particles from begin ground into and scratching the surface of the floor. It will also remove finer dirt that can act as sandpaper to the floor’s finish if subjected to heavy foot traffic. If there are pets in the house, this is especially beneficial to keep the dust bunnies at bay.

Vacuum

Use a soft brush vacuum cleaner to vacuum the floor once a week. This activity will remove the finer particles of dirt and dust that can accumulate in the cracks and floor joints. If left unattended, dirt and dust could compromise the floor’s seal, causing the boards to shift or buckle.

Light Mop

Periodically, the floor will appear soiled even with regular sweeping and vacuuming. When the floor’s shine begins to dull use a damp mop and a small amount of cleaner. It will help to restore the floor to its original luster. The key to this deeper cleaning is that the mop must be damp, not soaking wet. The goal is to remove the thin layer of film, not to soak the wood thoroughly. The floor should be slightly damp while mopping and thoroughly dry within minutes.

Heavy Mop

Periodically, kids, pets, spouses, and other acts of God and Nature leave the floor heavily soiled. Use a straightforward cleaning solution consisting of one part white vinegar and three parts hot water, damp mop the floor. Be sure to wring the mop thoroughly before applying to the floor, as excessive moisture is the enemy of wood. The hot water will loosen the soil, and the white vinegar is an excellent cleansing agent. Because the solution is so diluted, the vinegar will not leave an odor. Because white vinegar is such a strong cleaner, the floor will dry to bright, streak free shine.

How to Clean a Wood Floor?

Wood floors are versatile, long-lasting and easy to care for, as long as you know what you’re doing. There are different types of wood floors, each with specific cleaning methods. If you install a new wood floor, you will have instructions from the floor’s manufacturer to guide you. But what if you move into a new home with existing wood floors and don’t have any instructions?

There are two basic types of hardwood floors: surface-sealed and penetrating-seal or oil-treated floors. Most new wood floors are surface sealed, while older wood floors are usually penetrating-sealed.

One way to tell which type you have is to swipe your finger across a section of floor. If your finger doesn’t leave a smudge, the finish is surface sealed. If your finger does smudge the floor, the floor has been treated with an oil finish, penetrating seal, lacquer, shellac or varnish and then waxed.

Surface-sealed floors are coated with polyurethane, urethane, or polycyclic. These are the easiest to care for: simply sweep and damp mop. NEVER wax a surface-sealed floor.

Older penetrating-sealed wood floors may not be quite as easy to care for. This is due to the fact that they are not as moisture-resistant and may be more easily damaged by spills or wear and tear. They may require periodic waxing to retain their luster. If they become dull from waxing, they may need to be buffed out on a regular basis to maintain its luster.

Your two best tools for cleaning a hardwood floor are a broom and a mop. Frequent sweeping with a broom will eliminate dirt particles that can scratch the floor. And damp (not wet) mopping will pick up what the broom misses.

For spots and stains, use a cleaner made for hardwood floors, not a furniture spray. You may also try mild dish washing soap of about ¼ of a cup to a bucket of water.

Don’t use excessive amounts of water to mop—it can soak into the spaces and cause wood to swell. And never use ammonia, abrasive cleaners, or alkaline products that will dull the finish.

One of the best ways to make cleaning hardwood floors easier is to take a few basic steps to minimize the need for cleaning.

Use area rugs at each entry point, and periodically shake out the dust. Use thick mats in areas where water may splash.

Because it is a natural product, wood will change over time. You may need to protect it from excessive exposure to sunlight, especially if the sunlight only reaches certain areas. Window treatments and rotation of furniture and rugs will help the floor to age evenly.

A dehumidifier may also help to reduce moisture that can damage your wood floor, especially during winter months.

High heel shoes and pet claws can also damage a hardwood floor by scratching it. Use protectors on furniture and table legs, and be careful when moving heavy furniture so as not to damage the floor.
If wear on your floor is excessive, it may need to be screened and then re-coated. Screening will remove the current polyurethane finish and allow the application of fresh polyurethane.

If stains have penetrated the wood itself, the floor may need to be sanded, then stained again and refinished.
If your floor needs screening or refinishing, you will probably need to consult a reputable professional floor contractor. Always ask for references and check your local Better Business Bureau for any unresolved complaints. Make sure any warranties are in writing.

While no flooring choice is without some need for maintenance, a properly cared-for wood floor will give years of durable, easy-care beauty to your home.

How to Install Vinyl Flooring?

Installing vinyl flooring is one of those projects that most homeowners feel comfortable doing themselves. Before you begin, the base floor needs to be smooth and clean. This might mean sanding it down first if it is wood, either by hand or with a floor sander. Check for evenness in the subfloor by using a straight edge across the baseboards and corners of the room. Use a flashlight to check the straightedge against the floor and the baseboards. If high spots are found, you will need to sand or trim them down. If trimming is needed, use a small saw and a ruler, being careful to only cut away the exact amount needed. For very small pieces of flooring, a putty knife or flathead screwdriver can be used to trim the excess away. Check the subfloor for nails, and remove them if any are found. In some cases, a new subfloor may need to be added over the existing subfloor to provide a good base for the roll covering. After the floor is ready, a roll covering should be applied. This will ensure the stability and smoothness of the vinyl once it is laid. You start at one edge of the wall and roll it out smoothly from one side to the other. For out of the way areas which need covering, such as around cabinets and other fixtures, pieces of the adhesive flooring can be cut out as needed. For this reason, measurements should be taken first, and when cutting out the roll flooring, a ruler should be used in order to get the exact footage. Once the floor covering is laid, check for smoothness, evening out any air pockets. If laid correctly, there should not be any air pockets in the covering. The next step is the vinyl floor itself.

There are two approaches to laying vinyl. One is to use an adhesive, usually on the back of the squares of vinyl. Lay each piece down one at a time like a puzzle, smoothing it out with a small hand tool. The other method of laying vinyl is to staple it to the subfloor. Better quality vinyl will require this method instead of the adhesive method. This is advantageous if you decide to remove the flooring later. The adhesive method is harder to get up if you want to remodel in the future. Most roll flooring is sold in twelve foot widths, so if your room is bigger than this, you will need to cut additional flooring from the roll, creating a seam along the edges. If you are stapling or nailing the new flooring to the existing subfloor, do so carefully. These can be finished over later so they will not diminish the look of the new floor. Use a recommended cleaner to remove any adhesive. There should be no furniture or other objects moved onto the new floor for the first twenty-four to forty-eight hours after the floor is completed.

For a detailed demonstration of how this project is done from start to finish, you can watch the video at this link:

The steps above should be followed carefully and with safety in mind. This is a relatively safe and simple solution to laying vinyl floors, but if you have a friend who can help you tackle this project, remember that two heads are often better than one. After one or two days, your floor is ready to use. You should be able to walk on it and feel the smooth and even surface adhering to the roll covering and subfloor or subfloors below the surface.