How to Build a Weed Proof Landscaping Bed?

Spring is here, Time to work in the yard… Are weeds an issue? Here is the fix:

This project is fast and easy although it will require a bit of digging, But nearly anyone can do this.

There are only a few steps to completing this project, And you will need some materials and a few tools:

Here is a typical list:

  • Enough landscaping timbers to go around the bed you wish to complete stacking them at least 3 timbers high, Just measure the length and width of all sides that you wish to install the timbers, In most cases on the sidewalk or walk path will need these timbers if your bed will be placed against the house or a building, You will need enough to go all the way around if your bed will be in the yard and not in contact with a house or building.
  • Enough mulch or wood bark to fill the bed at least 3” thick (Length x Width x Depth)
  • 24” pieces of ½” rebar (Will be used for stakes to hold the timbers in place) you will need at least 3 for a 10’ft timber
  • Roll of “Landscaping Mat” or enough to cover your bed with 36” extra on all sides (If your bed is 3’ x 10’ you will need = 3’+3’+3’ Width x 3’+10’+3’ Length or 144 Square Foot
  • Drill with 9/16” wood bit at least 6” long
  • Drill
  • Extension cord
  • Shovel
  • Gloves
  • Shrubs
  • Utility knife or scissors

Okay you are now ready to begin your project, As always make sure that you are physically able to withstand heat, cold and strenuous work and that you always have someone with you in case of an accident.

And always REMEMBER TO CALL: Before you DIG!, There may be buried water lines, gas lines, or electrical lines. Each town has a FREE locate service. Please use this service before you dig!

  1. Purchase all materials desired
  2. Begin by digging a narrow trench next to the walk way where you wish to install the bed
  3. The trench should be at least 6” deep x 6” wide x desired length
  4. Save the dirt removed to return to the bed later (If needed)
  5. Remove any excessive dirt so that the bed is at least 2” lower than walkway if next to it
  6. Lay the landscaping mat out so that it extends 18” larger than the bed itself
  7. The excess will be used to wrap the 2nd stacked timber
  8. Guide the mat into the trench you have dug
  9. Lay one timber in the trench around the bed
  10. Stack the next timber on top of the first one
  11. Drill at least 3 – 9/16” holes in an timber 10’ft long (Every 2’ or so) into both timbers stacked on each other (Your drill bit may not go all the way through both timbers, This is okay, After you drill through the top one it will mark the location on the bottom one.
  12. Lay the top board to the side (You will use it for a template for the 3rd board so that all holes will line up correctly
  13. Continue to drill out the whole on the 1st board in the trench
  14. Using the 2nd board, Lay it on top of the 3rd board and mark the holes by drilling through the 2nd one again, Remove the template board and continue to drill the 3rd board
  15. Now you are ready to install them
  16. Place the 2nd timber on top of the 1st one.
  17. Drive your ½” rebar into the two timbers in the trench (Make sure the holes are aligned) Leave about 4”-5” of the rebar sticking out of the timber
  18. Now pull the landscaping mat up and over the 2nd timber forcing the rebar through the mat
  19. Tuck the excess over the inside of the timber (You are wrapping the two timbers together)
  20. Now lay the 3rd timber on top of the second one
  21. Now fill the bed to desired depth with mulch or top soil
  22. Plant the desired plants with small hole in landscaping mat (Only large enough for plant stem, root or seed.
  23. Make sure that the rebar is flush with the top of the 3rd timber (For safety)
  24. I have attached a few drawings to show the important views
  25. Enjoy your weedless flower bed.
Weed Proof Landscaping Bed
Weed Proof Landscaping Bed


Weed Proof Landscaping Bed
Weed Proof Landscaping Bed


Weed Proof Landscaping Bed
Weed Proof Landscaping Bed

How to install An Interior Exhaust Fan?

Installing a new interior exhaust fan in your restroom is a very easy project which takes only a few hours and greatly improves air circulation in small to large rooms. However since the exhaust fan requires electricity and working with wire connections you must use extreme caution if you are not comfortable working with electrical power. If you have no knowledge working with electric current please stop here and contact a qualified electrician for the wiring part of this project.

1. Purchase the desired exhaust fan from your local hardware store.
2. Most exhaust fans come with a “Template” to correctly mark the hole size and opening in your ceiling. Before marking the hole you will need to ensure that there will be no framing or conduits, wiring etc in your way. You may have to enter the attic to find the proper location for your new fan. (Use caution while moving around in the attic and stay on the framing only)
3. Now that you are sure you have the correction location and are between studs in the ceiling
4. Place your template on the ceiling in the correct area and mark all 4 corners with a pencil
5. Take a small drill bit and drill a hole on each mark (Make sure hole is square with room)
6. Now draw a line from one hole to the next till you have a box shape drawn on the ceiling
7. See diagram below:


8. Carefully cut the opening out with a keyhole or draw wall saw
9. Make sure you are wearing safety glasses to prevent dust from getting in your eyes
10. Remove the piece of drywall from the ceiling and discard
11. The ceiling should look like the figure below now:


12. Next you will install the exhaust fan from the attic space
13. Each exhaust fan comes with adjustable brackets that will span from one rafter/ceiling joist to another.
14. These brackets are very import since they carry the weight of the fan and allow the fan to run without making noise and vibrating.
15. The brackets can be screwed or nailed to the studs
16. Now place the fan and brackets in place and in line with the hole in the ceiling and between the studs, make sure that everything lines up correctly
17. See image below (Attic view of installed fan)


18. After everything is secured in place (Wiring comes next)
19. Make sure that all power is off and you are comfortable with this step – IF NOT STOP AND CALL A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN
20. After wiring is connected test the unit and switch
21. Install the interior cover on the fan
22. Your new exhaust fan should look similar to the image below:


The following images are for quick reference and may assist you in installing your new fan.


How To Make Quick Homemade Spicy Taco Seasoning?

Homemade Spicy Taco Seasoning

Store-bought taco seasoning has three downsides: 1) It’s full of sodium and other additives, 2) It comes in single-serve packs, and 3) You have to go to the store to buy it. Next time, try this homemade version instead for tastier tacos!


1 tablespoon chili powder

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

1/4 teaspoon onion powder

1/2 teaspoon paprika

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper


Measure and combine all ingredients in a small bowl, then whisk until evenly mixed.  Store in an airtight container.

To use:

Brown 1lb of meat in a medium saucepan, drain excess liquids, then add seasoning with 1/2 cup water. Cook over medium until the majority of the liquid evaporates.

How to Make Healthy Spicy Kale Chips?

Kale Chips
Kale Chips

Kale might be sliding over to make room for cauliflower at the top of the list for everyone’s favourite superfood, but it’s still delicious and full of healthy vitamins and minerals. Try this easy recipe for kale chips to help curb carb cravings!


1 bunch fresh kale, washed and chopped

1 tbsp olive oil

1/4 tsp each, chile pepper and paprika

dash of sea salt


Preheat the oven the 325F.

In a large bowl, combine the chopped kale and olive oil, tossing to cover evenly.

Spread the kale pieces out on a baking sheet, and sprinkle lightly with spice mix and sea salt.

Bake for 15 or so minutes, until it begins to crisp.

How to Build Porch Railings?

Building a handrail or porch railing is a fairly easy task, and in most cases a simple design can be completed in 1 day, (Unfinished/Unpainted). Materials cost are not very expensive and are easy to come by.

In some cases you may already have the porch posts and only need to add handrails, rails and balustrades. Limited use of electric saws may be needed along with power screw guns.

As in most projects you will need to be familiar with basic tools as mentioned above, and be able to read a tape measure.

The following are basic step by step instructions on how to complete this project. ALWAYS be safe and use the proper protection before doing any project involving power tools and sharp objects.

1. Measure the area that you wish to install the handrails and or posts
2. After you have the total lineal feet desired (Write this number down as LF)
3. Now decide how many post you would like to have (These will be the post that go from the deck or porch surface to the bottom of the ceiling/roof) You will need at least 3 since you will need one to start the handrail, one at the corner and one at the wall you are connecting to, If any length between the post would be more than 8’ft apart you will need to add another one between them.
4. Take you total LF and divide that number by 4’ft (16’ / 4’ = 4) So you will need 4 post
5. Start laying out the design on the porch with chalk to get a basic idea of size ad position
6. You will then determine how close you want your small balustrades apart? In most states they are required to have no more than a 3” gap between them to prevent small children from injury by entrapment.
7. You can purchase ready-made Balustrades at Home Depot, Lowes etc… And are already cut to shape and length. And come in several styles and cost about $1.50 – $3.50 each keep track of how many you will want by dividing the LF of handrail by 6” which would be 32 balustrades.
8. You can also buy “SIMPSON” strong tie connectors and post bases which hold your post securely in place. You will need one for the bottom of each post
9. Post bases are also available to purchase that are already cut to shape with different profiles and designs, (Made for 4” and 6” post) 4” is the most common and easiest to use
10. The handrails or TOP/BOTTOM rails are just typically made of a 2” x 4” board with routed or smooth top corners and are cut to length needed between posts (You will need about 32’ LF of these boards) 16’ for top rail and 16’ for bottom rail. These will be the boards that hold the balustrades in place and secure
11. The only remaining wood parts will be the handrail braces which are cut from a 2” x 4” board to a 6” length. You will need 2 per post and 4 for corner post
12. These braces will be the support for the TOP and bottom rails
13. I have provided a few drawings to show the basic layouts of all parts.

Porch Railings View 1
Porch Railings View 1
Porch Railings View 2
Porch Railings View 2

The drawing above shows an angle view of the corner style handrail system with 5 posts and they are installed on a 4’ft center and the balustrades on a 4-1/2” center (3” gap between) Notice the small 2” x 4” x 6” wood blocks at the bottom of the post.

Porch Railings View 3
Porch Railings View 3

The drawing above shows a 5 post system that is 16’ LF.